The mixture of these breeds combines the refinement and stamina of the Arabian with the animated action of the American Saddlebred. The resulting horse has the high-set, upright, long, swan-like neck of the Saddlebred, but it should not have a pronounced crest. The head is generally small and refined with small ears and a profile that is either straight or concave, with no Roman nose. The National Show Horse is close-coupled with a level topline and a very deep, laid back shoulder. The tail is relatively high set, natural and flowing.

The horse’s motion should be balanced with obvious power from the hindquarters flowing into an elevated front end, with the front legs showing both flexion and extension. When the horse is observed either at rest or in motion, it must display a natural presence or, when animated, it should present extreme brilliance. The horse must exhibit high carriage when either showing or relaxed.

The National Show Horse ranges in height from 14.3 to 16.2 hands high, though there may be some individual horses that are larger or smaller. And the breed comes in a variety of colors, including the traditional bay, gray, chestnut and black of the Arabian; with the American Saddlebred ancestry adding an even broader range of color, most notably including, pinto and palomino which are generally not found in the Arabian breed.

And, of course, they have the high-stepping action of the Saddlebred and can be trained to move with a very elevated front end. Most can be trained to be five-gaited by adding the slow gait and the rack to the traditional walk, trot and canter.
But the founders were not satisfied to just create a registry for a new breed; they were interested in creating a new atmosphere of excitement in the show ring, created by these spectacular horses themselves, in order to generate broader public appeal. They also designed new concepts and formats for their shows by adding incentives through a prize money system that would make it financially rewarding for the exhibitors to show their horses, as well as generate enthusiasm for both exhibitors and spectators.

Throughout the creation of this special breed, the NSHR took steps to make a variety of combinations possible of the three foundation breeds, Arabian, Saddlebred and National Show Horse, in order to produce a registerable National Show Horse. The simplistic version is that in order to be registered as a National Show Horse, a foal may be the offspring of two registered National Show Horse parents or it may be a combination between an American Saddlebred, Arabian, and a National Show Horse. However, the more complex version is that a specific set of rules must be followed when combining any of these three breeds to make a National Show Horse. Breeders may use only mares of those three breeds and the resulting foal is only eligible for registration when the mare is bred to the appropriate stallion so that the foal has no less than 25% but not more than 99% Arabian blood. These breeding combinations are as follows:

– Registered National Show Horse mares with 50% or more Arabian blood may be bred to stallions of any of the three breeds.
– Registered National Show Horse mares with LESS than 50% Arabian blood may not be bred to a Saddlebred stallion but may be bred to either a National Show Horse or an Arabian stallion.
– Registered American Saddlebred mares may be bred to a Registered National Show Horse stallion with 50% or more Arabian blood; or to an Arabian stallion.
– Registered Arabian mares may be bred to either a National Show Horse or a Saddlebred stallion.

In addition, non-National Show Horse mares and stallions must be registered with their respective breed registries (either Arabian or American Saddlebred). And the stallions that are registered as Arabian or Saddlebreds must also be both nominated and approved by the NSHR board of directors before they can be used for breeding a registerable National Show Horse foal. All foals who were born in 1999 or later, as well as all broodmares, must have their blood type/DNA information on file with the NSHR before a foal can be registered.

As for genetic anomalies, Degenerative Suspensory Ligament Desmitis (DSLD) is a possible disorder of this breed. Veterinarians do not yet know if Degenerative Suspensory Ligament Desmitis (DSLD) has its roots in genetics, overuse of affected limbs, hormone fluctuations (previously-sound broodmares may develop symptoms of DSLD around foaling time), or if it is some combination of these factors. Although the condition is probably best known in gaited breeds (American Saddlebreds, Peruvian Pasos, Peruvian crosses, Standardbreds, and National Show Horses), it has also been diagnosed in Arabians, Thoroughbreds, and Andalusians. DSLD is a progressive and rare condition and horses that develop it show increasing lameness, usually accompanied by physical changes in their pasterns as their suspensory ligaments lose their elasticity. Veterinarians caution that symptoms differ greatly per horse, but early signs might include stiffness in gait, change in attitude, and a reluctance to work.

But the exciting and new National Show Horse breed is a very versatile saddle-seat breed, that can also be used for show jumping, dressage, endurance or western riding, and with the new show formats and concept, it is destined to become a truly national breed.

Crystal is a writer for www.HorseClicks.com, classifieds of National Show Horses for sale and quality horse trailers such as Bloomer, Bee, etc.Article Source:http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/the-new-national-show-horse-for-the-new-millenium-1735195.html

In 1986, Dr. Heissan retired and Dr. Bradley with associates kept the business growing, always planning for the ultimate home for New England Equine Practice. In 1998, Dr. Gabriel Cook, a 1992 Cornell graduate, joined the practice. He shared Dr. Bradleys dream and in 2007 New England Equine Practice moved to a 33 acre, 29,000 square foot hospital providing a wide range of services including medicine, surgery, critical care, MRI, nuclear scintigraphy, lameness and prepurchase examinations. The surgical suite and recovery facilities allow for convenient and safe patient management during the anesthetic induction, surgery and recovery phases. The hospital includes an isolation ward and indoor riding ring. Dr. Heissans death in 2007 was a shock to our doctors and the horse community he served so faithfully. He had an opportunity to visit the new clinic and was proud to see the result of the business he started 37 years previously. In January 2008, Dr. Cook became a full partner with Dr. Bradley. Currently New England Equine Practice P.C. employs 3 associate veterinarians, an intern as well as 25 lay employees and specializes in providing comprehensive horse care both in the hospital and on the farm. The hospital facility offers a full range of services including surgery, internal medicine, infectious disease and isolation facilities and advanced diagnostic imaging. The practice offers ambulatory services for routine care and preventive medicine. Lameness and prepurchase examinations, as well as pre or post-natal reproductive care can be handled at the stable and are known as Dutchess County Equine Vet.

Pre-purchase examinations should be an integral part of the well informed decision when buying a horse. While most examinations are performed by the ambulatory service, complex lameness examinations requiring multiple attempts at diagnostic anesthesia to further define the lameness and specific diagnostic imaging are performed in the hospital. Additionally, some pre-purchase exams are electively performed in the hospital in order to facilitate scheduling or if image results are needed immediately. The indoor ring provides a convenient place for us to examine horses in motion.

New England Equine Practice has been serving regional horsemen since 1970 and are very well known as Dutchess County Horse Vet or Hudson Valley Equine Vet. The hospital facility offers a full range of services including surgery, internal medicine, infectious disease and isolation facilities and advanced diagnostic imaging

Article Source:http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/new-england-equine-practice-provides-comprehensive-horse-care-both-in-the-hospital-and-on-the-farm-1712571.html

It has been called by many names over the years: American Quarter Horse, Foundation Quarter, Standard Quarter, Racing Quarter, Running Quarter, Quarter Miler, Short Horse and the cowboy’s Cutting Horse.

While the breed originated in the United States and is now distributed worldwide, its ancestry dates back to the Arabian, Barb and Turk horses that were imported to America by early Spanish explorers, conquistadors and traders. These were combined into the Chickaswas breed by Native Americans to form one side of the bloodline, with English horses and Thoroughbreds on the other. Morgan and Standardbred horses have also been used in the breed’s development. But it is difficult to give the exact origins because the blending of bloodlines to produce a short-distance horse started in colonial regions prior to the Revolutionary War. The true beginnings are believed to have been in the Carolinas and Virginia but the principle development was in the southwestern part of the United States, in Texas, Oklahoma, New Mexico, eastern Colorado, and Kansas when in the early 1600s, settlers began importing English horses and breeding them to the native Spanish-based Chickaswas stock to create a tough all-purpose horse.

Of course, naming horses after people was common practice back then and when the horses were sold their names were often changed. This led to confusion when attempting to verify pedigrees. Nowadays a horse’s name must be acceptable to the American Quarter Horse Association and must not exceed 20 characters. Quarter Horse names may be reused only if certain criteria are met as per AQHA rules.

And no particular attention was made to keep them as a distinct breed, either.  Fast horses were raced in any suitable open space with many races being run as “match races” after a private wager between owners or riders. Any of these fast horses that also made good cow horses were crossed to existing mares.  Many of these mares had Spanish, Arabian, Morgan, or Standardbred backgrounds. 

In 1889, Traveler, a horse of unknown pedigree, was shipped to Texas in a carload of horses but it is believed that he originated in Kentucky.  Traveler was apparently not considered valuable and at least once changed hands in a craps game.  He and his descendants were mated to some excellent mares, and many Quarter Horses today can trace back to him along the paternal side.

Currently there are two basic varieties of the breed. The Foundation Quarter, Standard Quarter or old-fashioned “Bulldog” type is the smallest, shortest, stockiest, most muscular variety, yet extremely agile and sure-footed. Used for ranch work, trail and pleasure riding, they average 14 to15 hands and weigh 900 to 1,100 lbs. The Racing Quarter, Running Quarter is taller, leaner and looks more like a well-muscled Thoroughbred due to the added Thoroughbred genes. These average between 15 to 16 hands, weigh 1,000 to 1,250 pounds and tend to be in solid colors with limited white markings.

American Quarter Horse Association (AQHA), the largest equine breed registry in the world, and founded in 1940, has registered more than 5 million American Quarter Horses with the current population estimated at 3.2 million animals.

The breed is usually recognized by a short muzzle, broad forehead with a straight profile and large jaws. It has small fox-like ears and large, wide-set eyes. The neck has a slight crest. Their backs are short with good withers and a sloping croup.  The barrel is deep with well-sprung ribs and the hooves are well-rounded, with deep open heels. The following 13 colors are accepted by the AQHA: brown, chestnut, gray, dun, red dun, bay, buckskin, black, grullo, red roan, blue roan, and palomino, with sorrel being the most common and limited white markings.

The walk, trot, canter, and gallop are the Quarter Horse’s natural gaits. Some individuals have long, leggy movements with a lot of knee action, while others take shorter steps.

As for disposition and personality, this horse is the most willing, laid-back, quiet and even-tempered of all the breeds, and has a gentle nature. They are quick and agile, level-headed and sensible, sure-footed and steady with good stamina. Their unflappable nature has made them suitable for mounted police units in cities. Intelligence, reliability, adaptability and willingness to please their owners make the Quarter Horse very easy to train in all ways. The breed seems to have an innate “cow sense” and can anticipate the moves made by cattle which makes them indispensable for herding and cutting.

There is one downside to the breed however, a genetic oddity known as Hyperkalemic Periodic Paralysis (HYPP). This is listed as a genetic defect in AQHA’s rules, along with Parrot Mouth and Cryptorchidism. HYPP is inherited as a dominant trait and is characterized by intermittent episodes of uncontrolled muscle tremors (shaking, trembling or twitching) or profound muscle weakness, and in severe cases, may lead to collapse and/or death. To date, HYPP has been traced only to descendants of a horse named IMPRESSIVE, #0767246.

They are indeed an all-purpose horse with uses ranging from racing, herding, and rodeo, to show jumping, dressage, carriage and pleasure riding.

Crystal Eikanger writes for www.HorseClicks.com, classifieds of Quarter Horse and other breeds, horse property, saddles and horse tack.Article Source:http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/the-american-quarter-horse-faster-than-a-speeding-thoroughbred-1690715.html

Wile buying a horse wear you should remember some tips such as;

The weight and the material you choose will firstly depend on whether your horse sweats or not because some horses can stand an unlined canvas without sweating and some horses will sweat without any rugs at all.

How your horse treats his rugs is a big factor in choosing fabric for durability. Because especially in summers, when lighter weight fabrics are generally required.

Generally, anyone who competes during summer, will required some level of ultra violet protection for their horse, s coat to prevent sun bleaching and burning.

Always buy such type of wear which can be easily washable.

Most cotton and cotton blend rugs are not water proof; however there is a special type of fabric which is totally water proof while the shade cloth rug provides a high level of water resistance despite its open weave due to its high airflow properties which enable the horse to dry off very quickly.

All of these factors will be helpful for you to choose a successful purchase for your horse wears. Many of you will know exactly what you need; others may need a bit of careful thought as to what would be most suitable. For an example a horse that does not get too hot and is easy on its rugs would be satisfactory in the Breeze rip top rug.

On the other hand a horse which sweats when the temperature reaches twenty five degrees, and is perhaps harder on its rugs, would do very well with a shade cloth rug. If total ultra violet protection is required, then a hood combo could be solution.

For a situation where the horse needs to be kept dry at all times but gets hot under unlined canvas would be ideally suited to the aqua proof. So there are a lot of things to be considered for your horse wears.

Author writes for equestrian clothing, equestrian safety and horse medicine.

Article Source:http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/some-tips-before-buying-a-horse-wears-for-your-horse-1674188.html

Before deciding to pursue his passion and his own horse, there are some important questions you need to know. Make no mistake - you really have to be honest with you, because it is an important obligation. The next thing to do, you will find a horse that meets your needs.

So what to do next, if you determine that a horse wants to buy? Ask yourself if the horse really satisfy all your needs. What motivates you to buy a horse for your account? Do you plan to ride this horse? Some landlords do not keep your horse right to a truck or car to drive.

Do not enable the temperament of this beautiful creature, before payment, so it seems can sometimes be misleading. Quiet, feisty, aggressive, submissive, or in bad mood: These are found only some of the different personality types, what you, as it affects the usage you want to be aware. A horse will be stubborn sometimes, you have at your disposal, you are not familiar with horses. If you are a horse, on foot to the fraudulent collected for this purpose: They are prices much lower than the horses of the show available. Getting a young horse with the aim of training only works if you have experience with the management of this powerful but fragile beings. It would be suicidal to let an inexperienced driver to drive and inexperienced!

Always be patient and learn to time, can prevent damage to you and your horse to do that because of their ignorance of the right thing.

Often made decisions without the help of a faithful companion regretted later, so make sure that accompanies you during their trip. Many of the prospective owners have purchased a horse that does not fit and they can do this with impartial advice of a friend to be avoided. If your partner is an experienced driver so much the better - who can prove that the animal its name. As the owner of a horse as possible, you should always (or allow) your partner, the horse before you buy is mount - this application is refused, be very suspicious.

George Sandler is a freelance writer, you can read more of his jobs about Harley Davidson T Shirts and Harley Davidson Apparel

Article Source:http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/how-to-buy-a-horse-1636511.html

1. Start with a healthy horse

Our number one tip is to make sure when getting a new horse that it is healthy to begin with. There are a lot of horses which are cheap, or even free, because they have health issues; avoid them as you are likely to spend more in veterinary costs and tears than you will save on the purchase price. Also, beware of sellers passing off a sick horse as a healthy one. Before buying a horse, put it through a thorough health check (see our website for guidance).

2. Food type and quality

Try to feed the horse as natural a diet as possible. This should be grass whenever possible, otherwise hay. There are cases when a horse may need other types of horse feed (e.g. an old horse with dental issues, a weak horse that needs extra energy), but for a healthy horse a natural diet is best for its physical health and mental wellbeing.

Aside from the type of food, one needs to ensure that it is of good quality. In particular, a horse should NEVER be given food that has mold or fungus (visible by sight or smell). If food becomes damp or wet, it should be used immediately or disposed of, since food that has gone off can cause a variety of illnesses such as colic or laminitis (founder).

It is advisable that the horse has a mineral stone and salt lick, to compensate for any elements which may be missing from its food.

3. Natural environment (pasture & herd)

Just as a horse should have natural food, it should spend as much time as possible in a natural environment. The two most important parts of this is that it should be on pasture as much as possible and that it should be part of a herd (i.e. with other horses or horse equivalents). Time on pasture gives the horse a natural diet (grass), a natural feeding regime (many small feeds throughout the day rather than a couple large and short feeds), exercise and mental stimulation. Being with other horses gives a sense of safety (horses have a very strong herd instinct) and the social interactions gives it mental stimulation.

A horse which spends much of its day in this type of environment is not only happier, but is far less likely to develop bad habits (e.g. cribbing) due to stress or boredom. Horses which are kept in a natural environment also tend to be physically healthier.

4. Healthy stall

Especially if a horse spends a lot of time in its stall, the stall environment should be healthy.
- It should have enough ventilation that there is not a build up of ammonia (the harsh burning smell which is produced when bacteria break down horse urine on the stall floor).
- It should be big enough that the horse has a bit of room to move, say 4 yards by 4.
- It should have clean and suitable bedding. In particular, bedding which has gone off (mold or fungus) should never be used.

5. Safe pasture

The pasture should be free of any items which could injure the horse.

One of the most common causes of serious horse injuries is inappropriate fencing wire. One should never use barbed wire, as it can puncture the horse, resulting not only in injuries (which can be fatal if it happens to hit a main artery) but also abscesses and other serious infections. One should not use high-tension wire, since if it breaks and tangles around a horse’s leg, it can cut through flesh and tendon down to the bone. If one uses wire, it should be a type which breaks before causing serious injury and should probably be under electrical current to discourage horses from pushing against it.

If one is using a field which has not been previously cleaned, every bit of it should be closely examined for items which could injure a horse and such items removed. I’ve seen enough horses seriously injured from being put on an old farming field which had bits of fencing wire or pieces of machinery lying about. Likewise, holes (e.g. from burrowing animals) can result in a broken leg so should be filled in promptly. Similarly, broken branches or other objects lying around can result in injuries (especially if the horses are spooked at night, when they may not see the objects and consequently run into them).

There are a number of poisonous plants, which can make a horse ill or even kill it. Learn what types of plants are on your horse’s pasture and check if any of them are poisonous to horses. Most horses will avoid the majority of poisonous plants (unless there is nothing else to eat) so if you see a type of plant which the horses are not eating, one should in particular check that it is safe.

6. Preventative routine medical

An ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure. One should worm a horse regularly, give it the required inoculations, and have a regular (e.g. once a year) dental check. Worming requirements depend partly on where you live (parasite types and severity vary by region). Likewise the inoculations which should be given depend not only on the local areas (what diseases are present) but also on how you use the horse (e.g. if it is transported off your property and comes into contact with strange horses). Consequently, one should discuss requirements with a local veterinarian.

7. Watch and regularly inspect the horse

Horses, like people, will naturally become ill occasionally and may suffer accidents from time to time. In most cases, one starts with a minor problem which is easily (and inexpensively) treated if spotted early, but may become a major issue if left untreated.

One should watch a horse each day, and preferably twice a day, even if it is just for a few minutes. Learn what is normal behavior for that particular horse (e.g. running about or quietly grazing) and if there is a change to its normal behavior one needs to inspect the horse more closely. In particular, any signs of the horse appearing unwell (e.g. head hanging, inactive, stopped eating) or unhappy should be checked and monitored until the cause is found and corrected, with veterinary assistance if the situation becomes worse or is already serious.

Certain illness (e.g. impaction colic, laminitis) can often be treated successfully if done so promptly, whereas waiting less than a day after the first visible symptoms can result in a maimed or dead horse. Regular observation and prompt treatment are the key to so many illnesses.

One should clean and examine the sole of the hooves each day. In part this is to remove stones, ice chunks or other items which can damage a hoof. However, an equally important part of this daily routine is that it enables one to spot hoof issues early. Likewise, regular grooming is important not only because a clean horse looks better but also because it provides an opportunity to closely examine all parts of the horse for injuries or other abnormalities.

8. Shelter

Horses should have shelter from excessive cold, rain or wind. A simple shelter, open on one side facing away from the prevailing wind, can greatly increases the horse’s comfort. Alternatively, when the weather is very bad, it may be necessary to remove the horses from pasture and paddock and put them into their stalls.

The amount of shelter a horse requires depends on the local environment (how extreme the temperature gets locally) but also on the horse. A strong and healthy horse, which is neither very old or very young, will be much more resistant to weather extremes. Likewise, certain breeds (especially if they have a long coat, which has not been trimmed or had the coat oils removed by frequent washing) are more resistant than others. One needs to provide a level of shelter which is appropriate to the individual horse and the current weather. One should also consider a horse rug for horses which are very old, very young, sick, weak or prone to illness. One may also consider a fly sheet which not only increases the horses comfort but also reduces the risk of sweet itch, eye infections (if a fly mask is used) and other illnesses which can be transmitted by biting or blood sucking insects.

9. Consider breed and individual requirements

Each breed has its own special requirements. For examples, many breeds are prone to laminitis and consequently should have only limited access to spring grass. Other breeds may have specific issues and require special treatment (e.g. many Appaloosa are night blind and consequently are more likely to run into fencing if left out at night). Learning about your breed’s strengths and weaknesses from a medical perspective will allow you to respond accordingly.

Likewise, each horse is an individual. Some are more weather resistant than others. Some are more prone to colic or other illnesses. As you watch and live with your horse, learn about its special needs and treat it accordingly. For example, if it is allergic to dust, one may need to soak its hay in water or buy low-dust feed. If it looks unhappy and uncomfortable in cold weather, one should consider taking it under shelter or providing it with a rug, as you may be looking at an early warning for a potential illness (e.g. cold-induced colic or a cold-induced lung infection). Taking account of your horse’s medical history and behavior as part of your horse management program will help keep it healthy and happy.

10. Continue to learn

Nobody knows everything about horses and everyone started out knowing nothing. However, if you educate yourself and continue to learn, you will be able to take better care of your horse, avoiding problems when possible and otherwise treating them promptly and correctly.

The above is an excerpt from Top 10 Rules for a Healthy Horse, written by Dr. Doug Stewart based on his research. Additional horse care articles are freely available on his Horses for Sale website.Article Source:http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/top-10-rules-for-a-healthy-horse-1578439.html

Anyone know nearly this breastplate?
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Anyone Like This Horse? Wodex?
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Arab horses.anyone hear of…?
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Arabian Horse+ Open Circuit Problem?
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Arabian Horses…?
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I have really bad circulation to my feet, so i hold to wear thick socks in my tall boots most of the time. But they are REALLY self-conscious! Are there boots that have a padded inside, and that fit okay. I also need them to look good!

Are in that any perfect training programs for schooling horses to ride in need bridles?
I really wish I could train my horse to respond to simple leg ques and light pressure on his nouns to turn and such. Kinda like Stacy Westfall. I have no fear riding bareback & bridless. I simply want to train the horse…

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Add brackish to sea to lower freezing point?
I want to add salt to my horses water bucket to lower the freezing warmth. If I have a 30 gallon bucket, how much salt should I add per gallon to lower the freezing point by a few degree? He has a stock tank that is…

Adjustment of keeper?
okay so is it possible to adjust the keepers to a full cheek bit “long” or “short” and if so what is the ideal length and what will ensue if they r 2 short/long?

Adrenaline rush…? ?
So, I’m just curious about what kinds of things you/your horse enjoy done while riding that gave you a heart-stopping adrenaline rush going?Here’s one of mine: I broke a 4yr old Nokota mustang one time and after about 30 days on him go for a trail ride…

Advice near my riding? Only a few, simple question?
Okay, so I’ve been riding for 5-6 years, these past 3 years really getting into it. Im jumping up to 2′6″ (dont chortle.)Anyway, this is a really easy question.My trainers been relating me latley that ive become such a good rider in the past year. However, shes…

Advice of roll back and slide stops?
I’m an english rider… very english with a background surrounded by track work (gallopers) i’ve only ever really ridden dressage and jumpers for my self… and recently purchased an appaloosa gelding, who i own been training to hack and jump. and he is doing very okay… however…

Advice on foals (read story first!)?
Alright now I dont want to get blamed for getting my horse pregnant when I dont know anything on babies and whatnot. So Ill give you some circumstance info.These people down the road from me have a barn thats falling down, crappy fencing and horses that want…

After riding for an hour nowadays my ankles hurt so discouraging! What can I do to fix this?
I had to stop riding because they hurt so bad, the left more than the right, I couldn’t preserve leg pressure when needed because I couldn’t feel my ankle! I am new to riding and I ride western.

Again! I entail some planning for this project?
So I know i posted a question like this already, but I didn’t get severely many responses, so I’m try again. Here is the issue. Instead of exams we have a big geography project, it has to be on anything contained by the area about geography. It…

Am I in position for a horse?
Well, I have been riding for 2 years like curriculum. And have been around horse long before that. I am jump 2′6 and know everything about horses help me!

Am i making a bleak choice?
OK I have a 12 year old arab and he only have one eye he cant stand being away from me so i ride him is that a bad entity to do because he also got lyme disease too so he cant go far?

Am I really an amateur, or am I only emotion close to I am?
OK, so I have been riding for 5 years, 3 years 3-4 time a week. I can walk, trot, canter, gallop, post pretty resourcefully (I’m really a western rider), pivot do simple lead changes, and advanced one with a horse who know how. I own competed it…

Am I self cruel stopping him from jump? ?
I am not a keen jumper myself and my TB often refuse jumps or jumps much higher than the hurdle itself, which has knocked my confidence slightly regarding jump. A riding companion has said it is cruel not to jump him, and often looses his tolerance with…

Am I too big for a 14hh pony?
I’m looking to buy a pony for light riding, and I found a very nice one that’s 14hh. I’m 5′7″, 110 lbs. Am I too large to ride the pony?

Am i too big for this horse?
Im 5.10 15 yr old girl and i weigh 127 pounds. I dont want to be too heavy on my horse. I also have a western saddle underneath me. She is a 10 yr old appaloosa mare who is probally 14.5 or a little more HH.

Am I Too Tall For This Pony?
I am 13 and almost 5′6″. I am only 110 pounds. Would I be too big for a 14hh pony? She is an Arabian if that help. She is only 6, so she is still growing a little bit. I would be buying her for a project,…

Am I too towering for this horse?
I am looking for a half loan and I’ve found the perfect gelding, 14.3hh cob. And he’s gorgeous! But I am 5.8! Although I don’t weigh much because I am tall and skinny. But I own only been talking near the owner over email and I don’t…

Ammonia and the horses respiratory system?
okay so i read that ammonia fumes irritate a horses respiratory system and can cause a number of inflammatory responses and it also makes them more susceptible to bacterial and viral invasion. Well HOW does ammonia fumes build them more susceptible to bacterial and viral invasion?

An Arabian Related Tattoo?
I want to get a tattoo on the inside of my inner lip (heals faster, no one will see it) and I want it to be something Arab related since they are my favorite breed. I haven’t been competent to find an Arabian brand, I know there…

Andalusians , do you regard they would engineer cause to flow jumper? ?
what do you think? this question is not asking what horse would be a good jersey , simply do think Andalusians would be.=]

Anglo Arabs anyone know anything?
i am currently looking for a horse and am going to view an anglo arab this weekend. i have been riding for 9 years and enjoy been told she is a very nice ride good for the farrier etc. i be just wondering if anyone who either…

Animal assisted analysis - equine.?
Hi, im currently writing my dissertation on animal assisted therapy for children with social and emotional difficulties. Im trying to find some view from members of the public and thought it would be perfect to ask on here. Basically all i want to know is what you…

Anky Dressage saddle?
I ride in an Anky saddle at my barn, there are the billet straps, and then a strap beside holes in it coming out of the knee roll. what are these for? I just tuck it out of the means of access cause I don’t know what…

Annoying mare who won’t stop?
I recently aquired a horse several months ago and have done some amazing work with her. However in attendance is one thing that I can not fix with her, and I have tried everything I’ve intellectual in my years of riding, but nothing works.She is very… head-strong…

ANOTHER blanketing ask.?
sorry everybody…but ive never had to blanket my horse before =/i moved my horse to a new barn…and he get brought in at night to a small in and out and go out in a big field all daytime. i would like to put a blaket on…

Anouther interview on moveing barns?
alright so this is kinda like a follow up on my last question. so Basically we talk to the owner about moveing abrns tonight and we were extremly nice and told her thank you for everything she has done for us me and my friend even buaght…

Answers for howrse riding even 2?
1. A horse should have access to fresh, clean water at adjectives times:TrueFalse2.When leading a horse, you should walk directly in front of it to show it where on earth to go:FalseTrue3. What is a curry comb?A terrycloth towel or other type of clothA stiff-bristled brush used…

Any biddable suggestion to help out acheive a nice headset on a stubborn horse?
My horse has a wonderful headset at a walk, but as soon as she transitions into another gait her head shoots up. I hold her in a martingale right now, but she still does it. Anybody have any suggestions on what to do?

Any body enjoy a duty at a Boarding Sable Help please?
Im thinking about getting a job this summer at a boarding sable.I really want a job doing something near horses so i thought a boarding sable for rite now. Does any body have a job at a boarding sable whether so can you tell me like what…

Any comments on this horse?
I may buy…any comments? http://s539.photobucket.com/albums/ff351… http://s539.photobucket.com/albums/ff351… NOT ME RIDING

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The first step is to arrive well before the auction starts, so that you have sufficient time to look over the horses. Watch the horses are they are being unloaded and walked to their pens. The horses should display overall good condition and walk easily, without any sign of lameness. Given the noise and strange surroundings, it is normal for a horse to be alert and somewhat nervous; if they appear indifferent they may well be drugged or too sick to care.

How do the people unloading the horse treat it? If they are the owners and are gentle with it, apparently sorry to see it go, it is likely that the horse has been well treated. However, if they are treating it roughly, perhaps even whipping it into place, then it may well be an abused horse with associated problems.

Once the horses are unloaded, the next step is the go to where they are penned or stabled. Watch how the horses move and behave, eliminating any that have abnormal behavior. Look for any scars or blemishes, which can indicate previous injuries or mistreatment.

At this point, you will likely have eliminated most of the horses from consideration and have a short list of possible candidates. Try to find the owners for these and ask them to tell you about the horse. Ask what illnesses or injuries the horse has had. Inquire as to whether it has any bad behaviors, habits or other problems. Ask how it has been kept and what it has been used for.

At this stage, if you are still interested in a horse, ask the owner (or other responsible person) if you can examine it. If so, ask to have the horse removed from the pen to an area where you can check it over, since working in a pen full of strange horses is both distracting and potentially dangerous. Look the horse over closely. Carefully examine the feet (including the underside) and run your hands down the full length of the legs to feel for old injuries. Look at the teeth for excessive wear, loss or other issues. Put your thumb on one side of the spine and a finger on the other side and push firmly to see if the horse shows any discomfort or pain; starting at the shoulder repeat this for the entire length of the back. During your entire exercise the horse should appear alert but should not shown signs of aggression or fear.

If at this point everything still looks good, add the horse to your short list. If you don’t see any horses that you are absolutely happy with, it is best not to bid at all. Although the sale price may not be that high, the cost of ownership is substantial, so you need to be sure before making a commitment. Once you have finished your short list, set a maximum price for each horses; it is easy to get carried away at an auction and pay too much so one should set a firm budget in advance.

Before bidding on a horse, make sure that you have a place to keep the horse and to transport it there. If you haven’t made arrangements in advance, discuss with the auction staff if they know of a reputable person that can do this for you.

At this point you should have a good idea of what horses you are interested in, their condition and background. Good luck with the bidding!

The article Horse Auction was written by Doug Stewart, the owner of Horses For SaleArticle Source:http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/how-to-buy-a-horse-at-auction-1487708.html

Cribbing is sometimes confused with wood chewing but the two are different problems. A wood chewer simply nibbles on the wood, which is a habit that is easily treatable. A cribber pulls on wood (or other objects) while sucking air in order to release brain chemicals, which effectively makes it a drug addiction, and consequently much more difficult to cure.

Over time, cribbing will wear down and damage the horse’s teeth. The pulling motion results in an abnormal muscle development in the neck, making it thicker. A number of other illnesses, such as colic, are associated with cribbing but the relationship of these illnesses is unknown (e.g. does the colic pain promote the habit, or does the cribbing air sucking cause the colic, or are both colic and cribbing simply more likely in horses which lack pasture time).

Fortunately, it is possible to treat cribbing. Since cribbing is mainly due to boredom and lack of mental stimulation, one needs to provide the horse with interest and activity. Giving the horse as much pasture time as possible is very successful in reducing the amount of cribbing. Feeding should also be more interesting, with pasture feeding (eating grass) the optimum solution. If this is not possible, it should be moved to foods such as hay which have long chewing times rather than grain or muesli (which have short eating times and thus little stimulation). Many small feeds per day are better than one or two large feeds. Anything else which provides variety and stimulation, such as exercise and grooming, is also beneficial.

Unfortunately, once the habit of cribbing has been established, removing the cause will only reduce the frequency but not completely remove the cause. One also needs to stop the behavior as well. This can be very difficult as the horse can crib not only on wood, but on any item which in can hold tightly with its teeth and pull on. There are a variety of techniques to address this but no one technique works with all horses, so you may need to try different techniques until you find one that works with your horse.

One of the most common approaches is a ‘cribbing strap’, also known as a ‘cribbing collar’, which is a strap that fits around the neck with a mental plate on the underside to make it uncomfortable for the horse to swell its neck to suck air. Another device is the use of a muzzle, which allows the horse to eat but prevents it from grasping items with its teeth. One can also put a live (under current) fencing wire along fence rails to prevent the horse from grabbing the rails, or paint the rails with an unpleasant tasting paint (a number of veterinary approved products are available). In some cases, certain medications (in particular, anti-depressants) are helpful. Finally, if all else fails, there is a surgical solution.

One should do both activities, remove the cause of the behavior by providing more mental stimulation for the horse and also use one or more of the above techniques to discourage the behavior. Addressing the cause but not the behavior is normally only partly successful. Alternatively, stopping the behavior (e.g. with a cribbing strap) without fixing the root cause of intense boredom may simply result in the horse developing alternative behavioral problems.

This Horse Cribbing article was written by Doug Stewart, owner of Horses For Sale and author of various articles about horse care.Article Source:http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/cause-and-treatement-of-horse-cribbing-1435687.html